3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
I have an 85 325e i just purchased and i am pretty handy with tools being an ASE certified technician, but this is my first time working on an OLD german car, i see the cylinder underneath the dash, i have gotten all of the nuts/bolts loose and out, but how do you remove it? is there anything underneath the car i need to know about? I am perfectly comfortable with doing this, as actual BMW mechanics are pretty pricey here in TN, and the part is only 50 bucks from Bavarian Autosport. I would like to replace this before my clutch pedal starts getting weak and hard to engage in gear. Any tips or ideas?
I've been a BMW mechanic for a little more than a year and the clutch masters in these cars are no fun at all. Now that you have gotten the bolts out you need to pull of the hose that goes to the center of the master cylinder, I think it is usually blue. This hose will fight you the whole way but trust me it does pull off. Then once you get that off get under the car and take the hard line off the end of the master. Once you get the two lines off, the clutch master will come out. The trick to putting it back together is put the flex line on first, the blue hose, then put the bolts in but leave them loose, then go back under the car and put the hard line back on. Like I said these are never and easy job, but stick with it and try not to get too frustrated with it.
thanks, the way i found out i needed a master was by trying to put the flex hose on with the unit IN the car! yeah that was a pain, but i got it done in an hour or so on my back, so the only part i need clarification of is the hard line going from the bottom of the master to the slave cylinder, where is that located? is it easy to get to while under the car with basic hand tools? thanks for the help by the way, i have a feeling this is going to be one job in a long list of them that i am going to have to undergo to get her back in shape!
another thought: have you ever adjusted the valves in one of these? i was looking at Bavarian Autosport's website and noticed a tool that would make adjusting them easier, plus the valve cover gasket needs to be changed anyway. What do you think?
If you don't know when the last time the valves were adjusted, adjust them. I use a .010in gap. The tool is nice but you can make your own out of a wire hanger. As far as the hard line for the clutch master, it goes right off the end of the master down to a fitting then from there it goes to the slave. That is probalby the hardest part of the whole job, getting the hard line off and then back onto the new master.
must the car be running to do this? im pretty handy with a wrench but havent had the pleasure of adjusting valves on any car, i am pretty lucky to have a newer car that does not require valve adjustments (hydraulic valve lash adjusters) so i dont know the step by step, if its easy enough i will get it dont this weekend and get rid of that ticking noise. should i check anything for wear while i am under the valve cover? i assume the engine HAS to be running, the other techs where i work said i could set it to zero lash while it was off, and then set the lash while it was running. i hope you wouldnt mind giving me a step by step, i wouldnt think there would be any specific order that they need to be adjusted in. I just dont have access to the 175.00 bmw service manual, although once i start doing other things such as timing belt and water pump i will be getting that. what is the torque for the adjusting nuts and bolts? i hope i am not annoying you, i am VERY excited to be turning wrenches on a car that has been shunned by local mechanics because they think its foreign and "too hard to work on". I think this car is starting to grow on me!
DO NOT DO A VALVE ADJUSTMENT WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The engine has to be off and under 90deg F. I'm not sure what mechanics you talked to but they obiviously have no idea how to work on older BMW's. Pick up a Haynes manuel for your year E30, I don't like the Chilten(sp?) books they leave stuff out or tell you how to do something in a way that is harder than it really is. Read how to adjust the valves, if you don't feel confident in doing it yourself I recomend you take it to a shop that know's BMW's. I will tell you now that the older BMW engines that need valve adjustments at regular intervuls will always have a clicking noise while running. From working with them everyday I've learned what is an acceptable ammount of click just by listening to it run. Too bad you live far away other wise I could help you out in person.
huh, so the ticking noise will continue even after an adjustment? could that be due to work valve guides? worn lifters? i mean i will do it even though the ticking may continue, but i was hoping it would help, thank goodness the engine shouldnt be running, i didnt want to make a mess of the engine compartment! if it is supposed to be done when cold and off, then i am positive i can do it! now i just have to go and get that tool! i have heard that fuel injectors can make noise, i have never heard this noise, but it is often described as clicking, i doubt this could be that but the injectors ARE pretty close to the valve cover. thanks for all your help! i will go through these two projects and post back with my results! next step is getting my stereo and a/c-heater controls to funtion (gotta go to the shop and get my multi meter for that).
well i adjusted the valves today, didnt really need any special tool at all, bought a genuine BMW VC gasket and replaced the old one as well, the ticking didnt go away but as soon as i started it up the hose clamp on the end of the fuel rail revealed itself as not tight enough to prevent leaks, i tightened it and the fuel spray went away, the valves, as it turns out, were only out of adjustment by maybe a couple of thousandths per valve, so not much improvement, if any. I noticed that the P.O. recently replaced the spark plugs, and used NGK "V-Groove" electrode plugs, should i replace these with the OE plugs or i was wondering if some NGK iridiums would work in these cars.
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