Clutch - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 05-15-2005, 10:31 PM
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for all you do it your selfers I just spent 12 hours on saterday changing my clutch in my 318is and I feel I am pretty knowledgeable but that was a pain in the ass but needless to say things are all back to gether with a new one and it better that it ever was
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#2 (permalink) Old 05-16-2005, 12:08 AM
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Congrats on the DIY clutch! I hope I have a while before I have to tackle that one.

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#3 (permalink) Old 05-16-2005, 10:28 PM
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Nice work man, tough job right there.... what was the hardest part? I bought all the parts to do it on my last car ('87 325i) once I got int there and REALLT looked around decided to take to the shop... The dirt driveway just wasnt going to cut it!
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#4 (permalink) Old 05-17-2005, 12:02 AM
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I would say the hardest part was the drive shaft and geting that dang starter in cause its in a weird spot. The drive shaft was such a pain cause like camaros and american cars you can just un bolt it from the rear end and slide the drive shaft out of the tranny this you have to un bolt it from the rear and the tranny and drop the tranny to slide it back after I figured that out it came out pretty easy and went back to gether fairly fast.. Next is rear wheel bearings oh fun and struts. And the sad part is with 227,000 miles it still keeps up with camaros and all the other little rice burners lol
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#5 (permalink) Old 05-17-2005, 03:32 PM
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I got a bit confuse reading your problems. Iíve done lots of E21 and E30 clutches and the top starter bolt is a pain, the quick way is to grease your arm with Vaseline or something the prop shaft is no worries as long as you have removed the complete exhaust and heat shield, then just drop the prop centre mount unbolt the rubber coupling from the box (leaving the coupling on the prop) and bar it off the tie it to one side leave it on the diff.
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#6 (permalink) Old 05-22-2005, 09:30 PM
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but I didn't feel like droping the exhaust and snaping the bolts on the header cause they have been there for quite a while
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#7 (permalink) Old 05-23-2005, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by crazy91318@May 22 2005, 06:30 PM
but I didn't feel like droping the exhaust and snaping the bolts on the header cause they have been there for quite a while
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did you remember to resurface your flywheel? or was it warped at all... anyways sounds like a blast, and by the sounds of things it might be easier to just pull the engine and change it outside of the car... it took me and my brother about 12 hours or so to pull the engine and drop in a new one and figure out all the wiring... and i wouldn't have to crawl arround under the car. also when your doing your front struts since its such a pain in the ass i just welded a 3/4 inch nut on top of the 19mm socket i believe it is? somthing like that or 17 and then i got the baby socket and put the extension shave through where the 3/8's drive is supposed to lock in with the right socket size to go on the middle bar it worked pretty good! you'll also need a spring compressor and while your at it you may as well do that bushing... anyways good luck and have fun.

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