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Go Back   BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com > BMW Model Specific Forums > 3-Series (E21, E30)
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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.


       
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Stamey is an unknown quantity at this point
I already searched, but did not see this addressed.
Recently my central locking system stopped working when normally locking the driver's door. The only way it will work is if I go all the way to "dead-bolt" position. Can the sensor on the driver's door lock be cleaned and/or adjusted, or will I need to replace something?

Going to search for the answer to the strobe-light signal problem now....

Thanks,
Chris
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1986 325, 2.7L, 5 speed, 4dr, most power options, 312K and doesn't burn ANY oil. BEST car I've ever owned!
Been running Amsoil synthetic since 175K with 25K oil changes and 12.5K filter changes. Amsoil synthetic in everything else.
Had a whine/growl in the rear since I bought it in 1992 with 154K on it. With over 150K on that growl, I'm not gonna do anything about it until it breaks!
Head job with 2 intake and 4 exhaust valves replaced at 154K (bought it from a guy who didn't want to fix the head after not changing the timing belt)
139K on the clutch, and no end in site.

Other vehicle: 99 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 DIESEL. Twin turbos, 600 hp and 12's in the 1/4. I wish BMW had a diesel in the US.
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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First off, stop putting it all the way to dead bolt if the locks are orginal or pretty old. There is a good chance that it will get stuck there and you will be screwed. It sounds like you need a new lock cylinder and maybe a new micro switch. There is nothing to clean to make it work again, chances are it is just old and worn out.
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Old 03-06-2005, 10:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Stamey is an unknown quantity at this point
OK, pulled the driver's door apart today. Pulled the lock actuator out. Sounds like the microswitches are working.
Here are the symptoms:
Trunk lock and unlock, all doors work.
Driver's door lock, no other doors lock.
Driver's door deadbolt, all doors lock.
Driver's door unlock, all doors unlock.
Passenger door lock, or unlock, no other doors lock or unlock.
Pulled lock actuator from the driver's door of a parts car I have, and no change, same behavior.

I disected the parts car actuator so I could see the microswitch. It looks good to me, but does not have voltage to it when connected ot the car, as measured with a test light. I wonder if this gives any clues.

I don't want to buy an actuator until I can be sure that's the problem.

Thanks,
Chris
__________________
1986 325, 2.7L, 5 speed, 4dr, most power options, 312K and doesn't burn ANY oil. BEST car I've ever owned!
Been running Amsoil synthetic since 175K with 25K oil changes and 12.5K filter changes. Amsoil synthetic in everything else.
Had a whine/growl in the rear since I bought it in 1992 with 154K on it. With over 150K on that growl, I'm not gonna do anything about it until it breaks!
Head job with 2 intake and 4 exhaust valves replaced at 154K (bought it from a guy who didn't want to fix the head after not changing the timing belt)
139K on the clutch, and no end in site.

Other vehicle: 99 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 DIESEL. Twin turbos, 600 hp and 12's in the 1/4. I wish BMW had a diesel in the US.
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