3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
ive drilled through both the shocks completely drained out all the fluid. ive beat on it with a hammer, tunked it with a brick wall, sprayed it with WD40 to loosen the rust, then did everything all over again. i dont really want to take the rear bumper off because the bolts that hold it on are stripped and i dont want to get new ones for it. im just picky like that. i have heard of people doing this without taking off the rear bumper but i cant seem to get it pushed it. someone please help.
I can't think of anything else you can do, maybe you can just take the shocks out.
I haven't actually been under the car to look at the shocks before, so I don't know if you can do that or not. Maybe you need to back into something a little harder.
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just be sure to back into something that is like a wall or the like, not a light post, and cover the plastic bumper guard with something as not to scar it......or you could take some MAP gas and heat up those stubborn bumper bolts......heck i took off the rear bumper on this 86' i was cutting up and they were rusty and came right out no fuss no muss (and no map gass).
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ok i think i know whats up here happend to me too you might have just drilled till it sprays go deeper do what i did get a nail and a hammer it where u made the hole and make sure the nail goes deep in pull it out and you have your hole this is what i had to do cuz i had the same problem after i did that i just pushed it in with my legs i sat between to cars and pushed it in the problem i have is gettin the front tucked i can't find no one with long enough bench mounted vices
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the bumper shocks have rubber Orings inside them which creates alot of reisitance when trying to push them in. it's better to take the bumper off and twist the shock back and forth while pushing becuase once the metal is sliding along the rubber the coefficient of friction will be less. if want to leave it on it will take more force but you should try to apply the force as equally as possible to the two shocks because they'll go in easier if the shocks stay perpendicualr to the car.
just redrill them, and make sure its all the way through. one of my fronts was like that, and i had to drill from the back and then through the side. one of my rears was like that, but that was because i drilled through the side but only one layer.
the problem i have is gettin the front tucked i can't find no one with long enough bench mounted vices
what do you need a vice for? once they're depressurized you can compress them by hand
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