Better Handling - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 07-09-2006, 04:31 PM
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Better Handling

I'm looking for more highspeed stability and better cornering out my baby.
What would be my next step.
I've been looking at swaybars, stressbars, sport shocks, and some other stuff. I already have lowering springs.

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#2 (permalink) Old 07-09-2006, 09:06 PM
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A good, stiff anti-sway bar front and rear and sports shocks at all 4 corners helps raises cornering and steering response greatly. That is if all else is in good shape...
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#3 (permalink) Old 07-09-2006, 09:06 PM
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I would say start with your bushings first, I wish I had. saves the trouble of tearing everything back apart to do them after. Go with some IE urethane subframe and rear trailing arm bushings. for the front, replace your control arm bushings with treehouse eyeball arms, cheap fast easy way to improve the front. since you already have lowering springs, I'm going to assume you're running bilstine sports or better, since they're built for lowered cars. They're actually fairly decent for the price, and a lot of folks use them. Swaybars would be the next stage after that, and it's pretty straight foreward for the front. Swaybars for the rear offer a bunch of different problems on E30's, but all can be overcome with proper prior planning. When you beef up the rear swaybar on our cars, you'll start adding a lot more stress to the mounting points that they wern't meant to handle. First thing's first, reinforce the place where the swaybar mounts to the frame. Once again, IE has a great answer in their billet aluminum swaybar mounts...and they'll even ship them with whichever size urethane swaybar bushing you choose...I think for under $100. Next, take a trip to the turner motorsport site, and look at their trailing arm reinforcement. if you're a decent fabricator, and have access to a welder, or a friend that can weld, you can bend up the piece just like the ones turner sells. For a couple of bucks and some work, you'll be safe there. If you do both of these things, you'll be sitting pretty, if you don't, trust me, you'll be sorry. In the end, one of these things will break unless reinforced if you use stiffer and larger sways in the rear. After that, then you can move on to the stress bars if you still feel the need for more stability.

That's my 2 cents. I've done all of these mods, and I wish I'd have done them in this order instead of getting ahead of myself. And I really wish I'd have reinforced the rear swaybar stuff before I put in the 19mm one, would have saved me a TON of headaches.
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#4 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 12:08 AM
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Thanks alot for the relpies. I dont have sport shocks yet... I know, I need them. I'm tryin to find some slightly used bilsteins sports. I'm tryin to stay away from the cheap and tempting KYBs and Tokicos. My control arm bushings are broken, so those are next. Aren't the poly bushings to rough on street? What are treehouse eyeball arms?

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#5 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 12:11 AM
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go with brushings, sways, then springs (if you want), then shocks... IMO...
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#6 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 12:44 AM
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Good thread

What ive heard/read/done:

Bilstein Sport's best (I have em)
Koni's great$$$
no Tokiko or KYB cheap dont last
coilovers would be nice (ask starmavin) few more bucks
offset camber from upper shock mounts OEM relacements cheaper good (I have em)
or fully adjustables $$$
new rear shock mounts
Bigger is better on bars
urethane all around
If you do rear bars definiteltly do the reinforce the mounts trick
BMP strut brace on sale on line good deal looks great big one not small one your choice
dont really need rear bar,optional,(cheaper steel one maybe)

The good LSD helps.
yours is probably better than my stock one
good brakes help too

Yokohamas es100's or those new ones they have??

Then trim weight.

my two cents worth anyway

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#7 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 12:57 AM
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I've made 4 cents so far...

Can someone explain the caster/camber deal.

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#8 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 06:45 AM
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Eyeball arms are this :

http://www.treehouseracing.com/home/content/view/13/40/

Very good product.

As far as Urethane bushings being to rough for the street, well...Handling is a give and take thing. Incrementally, everything you do to your car to improve the handling will probably decrease your ride comfort. Yes, the bushings will make it ride rougher, because they're less compliant than rubber, and will transmit road vibration into the cab instead of absorbing it like rubber would. You'll have to make the decision for yourself which is more important to you, but if you decide that ride is more important, that's going to severly limit your options, and also your handling.
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#9 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 06:17 PM
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MIne were about 50 bucks each. a bit more than stock
BMP seems overpriced.
Ive seen nicer fully adjustables out there as well.
Justt acnt remember where.

I guess theese upper bearing mounts wear out and need to be replaced periodically. so if your doing shocks check or replace em then why not upgrade.

BMP offset units:

Part Number: 56855
Manufacturer Number: 31 33 1 139 484


(click image to enlarge)

Camber Correction Mounts

These offset upper shock tower mounts can be installed to increase negative camber by as much as .5° for improved handling. When rotated 180° they will decrease the stock camber setting by up to .5° for improved tire wear. (requires two per car)

MSRP $119.95
Your Price: $116.88

BMP:

Adjustable Front Camber Mount

A unique new item enabling you to adjust your camber and caster angles by merely loosening the upper strut tower mounting nuts. All this is done from within the engine compartment without raising the vehicle. This is an excellent item for increasing camber for competition applications, or for decreasing the camber for improved tire wear. The vernier design permits the smallest incremental adjustment with a total range of up to 2.0 degrees. So simple to adjust that you can do track side adjustments in just minutes. The rear adjusters are simple bushing replacements. Once installed they require only rotation for easy camber and toe adjustment



MSRP $345.00
Your Price: $325.95
Quantity:



Bav auto stock units:

31 33 1 139 452 Front Upper Strut Tower Bearing
$39.95


Dang Ireland engineering (which I think is near where you live
) has a whole bunch o options:
Camber Plates - adjustable racing

e30adcp Adjustable Camber Plates for Racing $275.00



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Adjustable camber plates are absolutly essential for track cars. Our camber plates mount to the body from underneth the fender using the original mounting holes. These are designed for use with 2.5" ID springs and coil overs. With the 2.5" springs you can get up to 3 degrees negitive camber. Kit includes slotted mounting plates, sliding plates with steel spherical bearings, and 2.5" ID upper spring perches containing needle thrust bearings. Plates are machined from billet 6061T6 aluminum. Racers will probably want even more than 3 degrees camber. We usually bend the strut housings 1 to 1.5 degrees for racing.

hmmm Ive still seen some that look beefier.
cant find em at turners???

ohwell gotta go..

Cheers,
Richard Fitz
'87 325is Delphin Metalic

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#10 (permalink) Old 07-10-2006, 09:00 PM
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I think I'm going to go the Ireland Engineering route for everything. I printed out the entire suspension, AND aluminum Control Arms, and it totalled $2K. I guess I will still need the reinforcement for the rear bar from TMS, too.
Either way, that's EVERYTHING. A complete overhaul on the suspension. I guess I won't be able to feel the effects of every component individually, but she should handle nice enough that I will love it. Sometime early next year. Stay tuned.

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