About 4100 Rpms... - BMW Forum

E30M20b25 · 05-02-2005, 10:37 PM

I've got a quick question... if I'm getting on it in my car (89 325is), at around 4100 rpms, it seems like my car studders, and starts to get going again at like 4300 rpms, if I'm just cruising and hold the gear out it won't do it, but if I'm doing about 3/4 - full throttle it'll studder. The exhaust makes like a hick-up kind of a noise... anybody have any ideas?

Fox · 05-02-2005, 11:56 PM

easiest things to say are dirty fuel injectors and perhaps your fuel filter is old and clogged. WHen your WOT the sudden pressure of fuel can make the engine cut out like that on little clogs.

bad man working · 05-03-2005, 10:59 AM

Sound more like a HT fault to me plugs lead cap something like that HT breaks down under load but it could be a lot of things

E30M20b25 · 05-03-2005, 11:48 AM

Quick question, and I know I sound stupid... what is HT supposed to stand for? Thanks for all y'alls support... it's really upsetting about my car doing this...

bad man working · 05-03-2005, 01:38 PM

HT = High Tension

E30M20b25 · 05-04-2005, 01:08 AM

thanks

also, at high rpms, coming from first into second... the car doesn't want to go into gear... is this a normal thing? like if I'm going through a turn, and punch it, and go to slam second...the car doesn't want to go sometimes... is that normal or what? thanks again for all y'alls help... I really appreciate it...

bad man working · 05-05-2005, 03:36 PM

No it’s not normal the Getrag box I guess you’ve got is one of the best. Clutch or syncro fault

nukeduster · 05-05-2005, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bad man working@May 5 2005, 12:36 PM
No it’s not normal the Getrag box I guess you’ve got is one of the best. Clutch or syncro fault

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or bad tranny mounts/shifter bushings.. with so much torque being applied to the gearbox at that high rpm, it can cause the tranny to shift slightly.. enough to miss a shift ... the problem is worse with worn out shifter bushings.

and "notchy" revving/running of an engine is often a bad AFM... hookup a multimeter to the two outer most pins on the AFM( i think, been a while since I tested one) and test if the resistence goes up and down evenly as the flap inside the afm opens and closes