3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
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so i freshened up my motor and got a good two weeks out of it..... ive changed afm, tps, crank angle sensor, computer,with known good parts and still having issues..... checked for vaccum leaks none
cleaning seven pin connector near drainback seemed a temporary fix ....only happens when the engine at operating temperature does any one have tps testing results the manual just says there should be continuity any actual numbers???? (ohms) throws w.o.t tps code any ideas feedback?????
can anyone ohm out tps and give me results ? also voltage test tps harness much appreciated! i get somewhere around 5 volts but as engine heats i get around 3v with a shake of the harness it fluctuates.... i believe this is the prooblem
fingers crossed
throttle position switch ended up being bad at soldered connection, on idle side...removed tps cover on switch and re soldered saved the 200 dollars in parts had two tps and both seemed same problem.. also found shorted wire after a harness dissection replaced wire and cars good as new hopefully this helps someone
throttle position switch ended up being bad at soldered connection, on idle side...removed tps cover on switch and re soldered saved the 200 dollars in parts had two tps and both seemed same problem.. also found shorted wire after a harness dissection replaced wire and cars good as new hopefully this helps someone
Ooops, I missed this thread !!
When a BMW "limits" at low-revs it is mostly the TPS and its connections...
Sorry, I will pay MORE attention in the future !!!
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Should my tps have dirt and oil inside it LOL, seems like a dumb question, im just wondering if anyone elses was highly saturated with oil and had dirt buildup around the input socket where the throttle plate shaft.thingy goes....
Should my tps have dirt and oil inside it LOL, seems like a dumb question, im just wondering if anyone elses was highly saturated with oil and had dirt buildup around the input socket where the throttle plate shaft.thingy goes....
Take the whole unit (TB) off and clean it with a v.high alcohol solution... Also, why not soak the MAF and ICV in some of that stuff too?
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Cleaned the living dogshit out of my TB maf and.icv, I was having problem after installing turbo about car not revving past ,2,500rpm so I put everything back to factory except for cold air intake and turbo manifold, just to take out all the possible problem by process of elimination, about to go clean all my harness.connections and reinstall my overhauled tb maf and icv, well see what happens.
Well, wasnt enough voltage left to crank.so I charged it up and well see what goes down im about to test start now, hoping I can start it without unplugging the afm, strangley ive had to do that once or twice to get her to fire up, shortly after it idles ill plug it back in and things seem to operate more smoothly, this is just a nightmare because before breakdown for turbo setup EVERYTHING on this car worked perfectly electronics wise except my drivers side rear passenger window.(convertible model)
And even my friends with their sportscars are sad for me at this point lol ive been hung up on electrical BS so long, ALSO, is it possible to run 24# injectors with no aftermarket FMU? My engine seemed to run stronger on those ol mustang injectots, but I swapped back to factory thinking maybe that was why I was rev limited to 2,500. I've since learned about that failing TPS epidemic, and im hoping to god I can drive my car before xmas, its been too long and ive worked hard to restore the engine and drivetrain to bulletproof factory manual specifications, although, with a tad more power haha
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