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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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Old 03-18-2004, 08:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 19
jdpiper is an unknown quantity at this point
I have an 89'325i, and I think it needs a new waterpump. It makes an ugly sqealing noise when I start it, and it's not as loud when it warms up.

How hard is it to change?

Is there any other recommended service that should be done @ the same time?

I have a good manual and ability, I just need a heads up from anyone who's done it before. Thanks!
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Old 03-18-2004, 09:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Kansas City, MO USA
Posts: 200
KC Ron Carter is an unknown quantity at this point
Use a bar of soap on the belt to see if it is the belt or the waterpump bearing.

With the soap applied to the belt. it will get quite if the belt needs replaced.

My WAG is it is a bad belt slipping when the alternator is changing.

<img src="http://kcrealtime.com/dyno-max_900_hp.gif">
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Old 03-19-2004, 02:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
Join Date: Mar 2004
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I've actually done this job myself and it's a bit tricky. You'll need to take all the belts of the engine to start with. I encountered two main sticking points, one was the fitment of the replacement pump, it's tricky to make sure you don't put a kink in the gasket when you fit the new pump. Poor visibility and a need to rotate the unit on it's bottom of the three bolts means a kink is real possibility. I actually did kink the gasket on my first attempt and water leaked everywhere when I tested it. Don't forget a sealing compound, but use the blue stuff!!! You don't want the stuff that goes off and hardens

The second issue to be aware of is the refitting of the cam belt tensioner. It's just damn awkward to be honest. I used a cable tie to take some compression out of the spring whilst putting it back in place. You can then cut the cable tie once it's fitted.

One other hint - It's a lot easier to get the fan off the old pump whilst it's still attached to the engine block, you'll have to take off the 4 pully wheel bolts which secure it so you can get at the bolt securing the fan to the pump. The haynes manual covers most of this job reasonably well but I wouldn't recommend this if your not vaguely happy with spanner in your hand! Good luck
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