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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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Old 11-24-2009, 10:37 AM   #1 (permalink)
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87 325es Computer Does Not Display

Well I took the car in to have a repair done and what do you know the mechanic was playing around in the console area and had put some wires in swapped...so when I tried to use the turn signals all i got was a buzzing noise from somewhere around the steering column. I took it back the following Monday and they swapped the wires back and the signals were fine...BUT, the computer display does not work. If I use a flashlight I can see that the unit is still working...but it is not displaying. Any thoughts? This is the full computer that has mpg, range, time, avgspeed... and is listed as a $700 part...so if I can fix it...yippee. Thanks for reading - Ted
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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any thoughts here guys? is it the light bar? does a control module control any of the lighting? the computer appears to be working if I use a flashlight to look at the display...but it does not illuminate...thoughts?
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
OMFG another one!?
 
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Maybe the back light has burned out or been disconnected.
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Old 12-28-2009, 12:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I own a 85 325e and i have ran into the same problem buy haven't been able to fix it. So if you do come across a way to fix it please tell
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Old 12-28-2009, 03:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I had to replace the backlight in my e30.

If I remember right it was a $30 part. (there are even some DIY threads floating around the internet that teach you how to build your own backlight using lights from radio shack). The part you'll order will be a light bar with two bulbs soldiered onto a board with plastic reflectors.

You DON'T need to remove the computer to replace. There are 4 screws around that center console that you'll remove and then the whole middle piece leans out and you can pull the light bar out from the side of the computer.

I'm sure you can find a DIY on pulling those 4 screws. If I have time I'll find it for you...
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Old 12-28-2009, 03:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I couldn't find pictures but this will give you the idea...

Quote:
To replace the back-lighting on your OBC:

Our aim is to detach the entire fascia of the centre dash, from the hazard switch to the bottom of the heater controls.

Remove the 4 switches and/or blanks above the radio. Using a small screwdriver to gently pry them out usually works best.

At the top of 2 of these holes you will find a small Phillips head screw. Remove these two screws.

There are two more screws, placed vertically , in the bottom of this panel. They are accessed from the storage compartment in the head of the centre console. You cannot see them, one is on each side, you must find them by feel.

Now that the panel is free, pull it forward gently. Never force anything unless an expert has told you to.Your aim is to move the panel about 1 or 2 inches away from the dash. There is no need to disconnect anything other than the switches you removed earlier.

Look at the right side of this assembly. You will see a section of white plastic on the side of the OBC. This is the light board.

If the back light has not been replaced before, the side of the black fascia will be blocking this light board. You will need to cut away the plastic that is in your way. Do this very carefully, I use a butane hot knife, but a razor knife will work just as well, you must make sure you do not cut more than you must, and be careful not to damage any visible areas.

Once the white plastic is cleared, use a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the centre ridge and pull it out, directly to the right of the car. If it has not been changed before, it will offer resistance, your force will break a small tab off of the light board, this is ok. You need to remove the same tab from the new light board and slide it in to the OBC.

At this stage, it is good practice to turn the ignition on to test the lights.

Assembly of the removed parts is straight forward. The best bet is to install the two lower screws first, as they are difficult and it's nice to be able to move the panel slightly to aid installation of the screws.

Don't forget to test the hazard and defroster switches after installing them.
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Old 12-28-2009, 08:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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yes, the part is less than $1, you can get it at a Radio Shack. It's the labor to get to it that's the killer....I'd have the dick that worked ,sort of, on your issues fix it for free...he caused it.... it galls me when you get the car back from a repair shop and they have actually broken something that was OK before you left the car with them.....especially if the original repair wasn't killer to begin worth...total bullcrap grease monkey stuff....
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:42 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Im sorry but where are those screws again?
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Old 12-29-2009, 02:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Here's a DIY with pictures: Repairing Clock OBC Light in E30 My 1988 BMW 325i

But this DIY is a little different than the one I posted earlier. The first one I posted you DIDN'T cut out the screw on the OBC...the second DIY says you cut out the screw, leaving only 3 screws to hold in the OBC. If I were you, I'd follow the instructions in the first DIY I posted.
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Old 01-14-2010, 10:35 PM   #10 (permalink)
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check your fuses and go to a junkyard and see if they have that part and plug it in to see if that one works if it does use that one or use parts off that one
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