'87 325 turns off when coming to stop, starts afte - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 05-21-2004, 07:40 PM
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Allrighty,

I've got an 87 325, very nice condition, something over 150k miles on it. Just got it 3 weeks ago, and brought it to Brooklyn on a 700 mile drive. No problems, whatsoever.

However, first time out in the city, while slowing to a stop light, the car stops running. Very gracefully just turns the engine off. All lights/electricals seem to be okay, and when you try to start it it sounds great, but just doesn't fire up. Wait 15-20 minutes, starts on the first crank. This has happened 4 times, each while coming to a stop at an intersection, each requiring at least a ten minute waiting period before it'll start again. The most recent 2 occured within just a few minutes of each other, each still requiring a decent wait. Some days it has run flawlessly, other days the dying thing.

I've got the 2.7 liter with the Motronic fuel injection (not 1.1), so possibly a cold-start valve problem?

I'm hoping someone out there has simply had the exact same symptoms before... yeah right.

Any ideas appreciated, especially with diagnosing the real problem.

Thanks in advance.

-ben
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#2 (permalink) Old 05-21-2004, 09:26 PM
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I have an 86 325, and it has a very similar problem, but it also has a few more. Sometimes, when the car is cranked, the rpms go up to around 1500 and the brake lining dash light comes on for a second, then it goes off and the car begins to idle normally.

The car also stalls, but only in a few ways, and I can crank it back up immediately, though I have to turn and hold the ignition for a few seconds. When I first start the car, if I reverse and apply any gas at all, the car stalls. If I come to a stop too quickly after starting, the car stalls. After the car has been running at speeds around 30 to 45 mph for a few seconds without having to stop, the stalling problems seem to go away. I have noticed that when the car stalls, it starts shaking, and the battery light begins flickering until both the battery and oil lights light up, but the power stays on.

On an unrelated note, the radio is very buggy. To get sound from it I have to play with the volume knob until sound comes from all of the speakers. Any help with this?

My car has similar symptoms, Ben, but I haven't found a fix yet.
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#3 (permalink) Old 05-22-2004, 09:15 AM
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Sounds like it could be a faulty fuel injector.Get an ohm meter and check the resistance on all the injectors.I am not sure on what the ohm ratings are at on these injectors but just check to see if they are all at the same resistance...
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#4 (permalink) Old 05-22-2004, 03:05 PM
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Wait does the engine light come out? IF it does check ur hoses going from your air intake to ur engine, cause if its cracked or ripped it will stall out cause it floods or doesnt get enough air.

Happend to me when i took car to go get a tune up. Guy ripped a hose on accident, he didnt know he did it so the car kept stalling out. Until I found teh problem and i changed the hose.

Dont know if that is any help but yea

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#5 (permalink) Old 05-24-2004, 02:49 PM
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Thanks for the replies.

No engine light comes on, but that hardly means much because I don't think most of the intrument panel is working. The fuel guage stays between 1/4 and 3/4 no matter how full the tank is, and none of the green/amber/red led's light up at all. Some of the air/vacuum hoses do look a little worn out so I may just replace them to be safe.

As for the fuel injectors, I can't seem to find where the cables to the injectors winds up ( the control unit), and to get at them I'd have to take off the entire air-intake manifold, which doesn't look like an easy job. Any idea where the controller for the injectors would be? The service manual I have isn't very helpful in locating it.

I'm going to try to clean the feed filter inside the tank tonight, as well as check the main fuel filter for dirt.

-ben
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#6 (permalink) Old 05-24-2004, 06:09 PM
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so i removed the float+transfer pump from the tank just to make sure there wasn't anything major clogging the screen back there. good news, there wasn't, just a couple of really thin possibly animal hairs up against the screen. i don't have time to replace the filter, but i did get a chance to listen to the fuel pump itself and it sounds totally solid.

-ben
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#7 (permalink) Old 06-01-2004, 08:21 AM
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okay,

so the problems have gotten worse, but i understand more of what is really happening. the car is flooding when it comes from a higher rpm to an idle once it's warmed up. after it refused to start at all saturday night, i waited 12 hours and it started no problem. so i figured on flooding. next time it happened (why do i keep driving it?), after pushing it into a lot, i pinched the main fuel line off before the fuel rail with a pair of pliers, and sure enough, it started in about 15 seconds of cranking. once it starts i release the line and it stays running.

any ideas?

thanks,
ben
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#8 (permalink) Old 06-02-2004, 06:15 PM
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well, so i finally took it to a mechanic. one quick check and they said it wasn't firing correctly, no spark.

turned out to be crank/speed/reference/pick your terminology sensors. they switched them and sure enough the car is fine.

now, anyone know a place for cheap parts? or should i just not bother?

thanks,
ben
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