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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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Old 09-16-2005, 09:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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86 325e And No Spark Please Help *Update*

Here is the update and all the things that I have found. I replaced the computer, coil, and the crank position sensor. coil gets power but no spark. the fuel pump does not get power either nor do I here the fuel injectors trying to work. so my question is.... is there a sensor somewhere that comtrols the spark and the fuel stuff or if it is out the computer senses that and wont activate those. I"ve spent alot of time and money on this so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Old 09-16-2005, 10:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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After checking all fuses, I don't mean look at them, check them, more so if they are the factory ones with open tops, after a while they like to break on the ends just enough so it looks good but no power goes through them. Also I'd say check the fuel pump relay for power it is located in the engine compartment on the drivers side standing alone from the fuse box. The fuel pump relay is the one in the center of the three. Check for power there while cranking with a digital voltmeter. If there is no power or it's not a full 12 volts. Check your main battery cable on the passenger side, there are several leads that split off from there check the connections for decay. Next is to check the primary engine socket above the power brake booster, look for decay in that socket. If all that is good, let me know, we'll go from there.
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Old 09-17-2005, 07:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the same no spark stuff happened to me and it took me forever to figure out what it was so i took it to a shop and it was the flywheel. not good the sensors went bad.
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Old 09-18-2005, 05:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by emericadna7
the same no spark stuff happened to me and it took me forever to figure out what it was so i took it to a shop and it was the flywheel. not good the sensors went bad.
How much did it cost you and do you know what sensors they are or if there is any way to test them
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Old 09-18-2005, 07:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Glad that you got it fixed.
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Old 09-19-2005, 12:10 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Rex,
If you have a crank sensor then you dont have the reference sensors in the rear of the engine that are triggered by the flywheel. You already replaced the crank sensor and it was up front near the harmonic balancer correct? If you have no power at the fuel pump then obviously that is an issue and most likely the cause of your problem. You may have a bad main relay which supplies power to the control circuit of the fuel pump relay and also supplies power to the DME. the only way to know for sure is to get a meter and start pinpoint testing at the relays. I think that on your model the relays are under a small plastic cover (not in the main fusebox) near the LF shock tower next to the round diagnostic connector. The fuel pump relay is a 4 pin relay and the MAIN relay is a 5 pin. I think the Main relay sits lower than the fuel pump relay and is more towards the front of the car. Keep in mind that on older cars somebody may have moved them from the original positon though.The main relay should have 2 Red wires a Brown wire a Green wire and 2 red/blue wires that come out of 1 pin. The fuel pump relay should have a red wire, a white/red a brown/green and a green/violet. If you dont know how to do pinpoit testing then u can simply try jumping the 2 red wires together on the main relay. Remove the relay from its holder and using a jumper wire jump across the pins that go to the 2 fat red wires. If the car starts then you know that you either have a relay problem or a supply problem and then you can trace your way back.
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Old 09-19-2005, 06:19 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Hey DT, If Rex's Eta is anything like mine, the crank position sensor is actually way back on the engine and references the flywheel as does the speed sensor. As for the relays, mine at least (I have an 86 eta as well) are all in the same box as the fuses. Under a clear blue plastic cover on the drivers side, behind the left strut tower. But the wiring sounds correct though assuming no one rewired the relay box or anything!

My last thought for possible causes is the flywheel itself. If the relays don't resolve the issue, you may need to get a new flywheel as that is what the DME looks at to determine when to spark. The Crank Position Sensor is situated so that the very tip of it is within 2-3 millimeters of the teeth on the flywheel, and if one of the reference teeth (not sure how many there are) is broken off, which DOES happen occasionally, that would be my last line of defense. If DT's recommendations don't resolve the issue for you, that would be my next course of action.

Really hoping you get running again SOON!!

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Old 09-19-2005, 05:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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yeah I replaced the crank sensor, it was on the bell housing. I"ll try jumping the relays tonight. I"ll keep you all posted thanks for all the help keep it coming
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Old 09-21-2005, 08:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Any luck by jumping relays?

Just curious. This thread is starting to get under my skin! No one should be without the use of their e30 for this long!!!

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Old 09-21-2005, 06:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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ok I don't think I'm jumping the main right. When I just jump the two red the fuel pump turns on right away but still no start or spark. Am I supposed to somehow jump then with the relay in? Also can you explain how to pinpoint
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Old 09-21-2005, 06:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I had a very similar problem last year on my '87 325e. First, i thought it was a fuel delivery problem: I tested and replaced the transef fuel pump, main fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator,...then coil, ecu.... checked the pin on the flywheel (sometimes it breaks off, but it was there), checked signals from reference sensor (good), even checked the air flow/air mass meter on the intake (good). After 2 months and all that, it was just the main relay. It's a common failure, and i'd recommend getting one...it's cheap, may solve your problems, and if not, it probably will dave you a headache in the future.
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Old 09-21-2005, 09:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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yeah I"ll try and get one
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