3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
BimmerWerkz.com is the premier BMW Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
I recently bought a 325ic. I had all of the belts, hoses, plugs wires cap rotor etc replaced and the temp gauge stays over halfway and close to the red mark. When I have the A/C on, it moves almost to the red. The engine fan works, the engine has plenty of coolant.
Already installed new water pump and timing belt when I had the engine tuned up. I have heard from several people about flushing and filling the radiator along with replacing the thermostat.
Is the thermostat tough to replace on a BMW? I've done it with ease on several other cars.
Alright so, I have replaced the thermostat, bleed the coolant, the timing belt and water pump are brand new. The only thing I can think of that I have not done is flush and fill the radiator which is next on my list. Can anyone think of anything that I am missing here? The car is full of coolant, the clutch fan works great. The thing is , it stays at the same heat no mattter if I am going 65 or standing still in traffic. I did however notice that the temperature needle jumps around a lot. If I hit aa bump it will move 1/4 inch sometimes!
hey buddy, I have a 1991 318i and I have the exact same problem as you. My buddy owns a garage so I took it in one day and worked it on it with one of his mechanics. We flushed the cooling system, I changed the thermostat, fan is working fine, replaced the battery in the odometer unit, tested the circuit, checked out the sensor and the fuses. Everything was fine. And my needle fluatutes too. Sometimes it will go right to red and when you smack the dash it will jump back to 3/4 or 1/2. But even when it was all the way at red I know that the engine wasn't over heading. So it doens't bothe rme anymore I just drive normal even when it's sitting at red. Seomtimes I drive for hours when it's at red. If your engine is acutally over heading and it it was all the way at red, we'd see smoke coming out of our car by now. It's an older car sometimes things just malfunction over time. But when it gets a little warmer here in Canada, I'll certianly look deeper into it. But I'll keep you posted or vice versa when one of us find out what the source of the problem is.
Well that's a relief to know. I have been driving around in 90 degree weather with the heat on and the top down. Now, I can at least turn the A/C on (and the heat off). I noticed also that the temp gauge jumps when I smack the dash as well.
Thanks for the insight will, let me know if you find the cure.
Originally posted by will1506@Jun 10 2004, 10:29 AM hey buddy, I have a 1991 318i and I have the exact same problem as you. My buddy owns a garage so I took it in one day and worked it on it with one of his mechanics. We flushed the cooling system, I changed the thermostat, fan is working fine, replaced the battery in the odometer unit, tested the circuit, checked out the sensor and the fuses. Everything was fine. And my needle fluatutes too. Sometimes it will go right to red and when you smack the dash it will jump back to 3/4 or 1/2. But even when it was all the way at red I know that the engine wasn't over heading. So it doens't bothe rme anymore I just drive normal even when it's sitting at red. Seomtimes I drive for hours when it's at red. If your engine is acutally over heading and it it was all the way at red, we'd see smoke coming out of our car by now. It's an older car sometimes things just malfunction over time. But when it gets a little warmer here in Canada, I'll certianly look deeper into it. But I'll keep you posted or vice versa when one of us find out what the source of the problem is.
hey i got the same car...great car.
Yea i got the same problem sometimes. My gauge will jump. I think its a short or something behind the guage. I dot know..i guess BMWs have a collant problem. I know someone with a 93 325i..has same problem with collant and the gauges.
I Put an electric fan and its works well it makes a little difference not tooo much but i think its better overall for the car because the a/c puts more strain on my engine then the fan
it could be just the gauge itself....i used to have that problem and when i replaced the gauge, it was steady half...no more flicking/bouncing needle on the gauge...also, you might want to check if the cooling system is properly bled....no trapped air in the system....i have a feeling its just the gauge....
speaking of changing things, when i owned a supra there was a cheap way to make a short shifter and i noticed on the bmw their shifters are identical...what i did was pull the shifter out and heat up the rubber and the top half pulls off and you cut off the threads and weld them to the end of whats left on your shifter...it makes it hella shorter and it actually improves the throw...think of it as if you had a stilt...wouldnt it be a shorter distance to move if you were at the bottom versus the top....just an idea for all of you do it yourselfer's out there
another thought on overheating is also put another fan on your hood ...i did that with an mr2(yes i have owned tons of cars) and it helps out loads on the cooling over my motor under high boost
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
