325es e30 no starting and weirdness of no power - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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#1 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 12:52 AM
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Angry 325es e30 no starting and weirdness of no power

My Car Is An 1986 bmw 325es e30 with a manual trans from an 325is

i drove this car for 2 or 3 months then when my friend gave me the pink slip and signed it and said keep it i was on my way to the dmv and i whent to go(just sainely b/c a cop was a block up)
i touched the gas and it went up about 200 to 300 rpm then dropped to the peg and i used the starter to move to the side of the road and towed it home i figured since the head gasket was leaking btw cyl. 5 and 6 and timing belt had 130,000 miles on it(wondering how long it would last) and i cracked the oil pan on my friends steep driveway(complments to J-B cold weld). i pulled the motor and went threw it and did random other things (cleaned varnish and oil and carbon buildup) new gaskets, clean valves, spray bar, painted block, head, valvecover, intake, and engine bay, redline MTF in transmission,angel eyes (blue), M-Tech Pedels And Dead Pedel, blue LEDS under the dash, and full 2 day cleaning of the interior. steam cleaned carpet incuding Trunk carpet, shampooed carpent incuding Trunk carpet, steam cleaned all the seats, Dash, Door Panels, and the air ducts to get rid of dust and crud that may be in there(I was doing this after all the fumes ), i got a 10" Kicker CVR in a vented box (want a 1200w kicker amp to go with it ).

So now that im dont ranting my problem i charged the batt. and it was all back together and i turned the car on and the fuel pump came on(didnt b4 i pulled motor)and it stayed on then when i went to start the car it went off. other problems coil has no power idle control has no power if there are any sugests i would love that i need help with this

My E-mail is v330am@yahoo.com and phone # is (650)440-9167 my name is nick im in Cali
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#2 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 09:15 AM
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First, check all fuses. Then make sure you connected the primary ground on the forward part of the lower left hand side of the oil pan. Also check the condition of the cannon plug (main engine plug) for dirt and funk.
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#3 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 02:35 PM
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Question reply

I Replaced all the fuses with what it said in the bently manual (going to check if any blew again) and the motor cranks just doesn't start so yeah could it be the ECU? or whatever controls the coil < where is it used: gahhh sooooo annoying because the car handled amazing and i miss it
Edit: The fuel pump Started working all on its self
What is done to my car ghead

Last edited by AlpineSixAndSeven; 11-05-2006 at 02:58 PM. Reason: car made weirdness mor weird
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#4 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 05:10 PM
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Check the motor speed sensor and crank position sensor plugs just under the starter for corrosion.

Last edited by Starmavin; 11-05-2006 at 05:15 PM.
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#5 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 06:52 PM
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Thumbs down gahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

I just Replaced Them gahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh annoying
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#6 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 07:39 PM
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awesome use of smilies......

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#7 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Color Fade M-Tech E30
I just Replaced Them gahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh annoying
Are you sure that you didn't cross them? They have the same plug.
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#8 (permalink) Old 11-05-2006, 09:47 PM
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by Starmavin
Are you sure that you didn't cross them? They have the same plug.
Yeah i checked the book and i even tryed crossing them to check also my coil's negative side has a positive voltage but when i go to ground it to check(after pulling the wire that was on it) it sparks so WFT!!!!! ghead ( I REALLY like smileys if you couldn't tell the limit is 10.......)
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#9 (permalink) Old 11-06-2006, 07:02 PM
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650 ftw. Im from the 707.

as for your problem im not sure, but im down for a drive if you ever get the problem fixed. We can do skyline.

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#10 (permalink) Old 11-06-2006, 09:12 PM
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Exclamation

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Originally Posted by Numark318i
650 ftw. Im from the 707.

as for your problem im not sure, but im down for a drive if you ever get the problem fixed. We can do skyline.
Sounds like fun Or 84(just avoid motorcyles one met my friends yukon Poor bike yukon had 2 dents and the motorcycle's paint on it the motorcyclest is in the hop-sick-al he got ) or pagemill(R.I.P. E46 ) i took a 318 through skyline well it needs a wheel bearing but i still had fun

UPDATE!!!!! Problem has been pretty much traced back to the ECU thing of the flywheel(reference sensor pin)
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#11 (permalink) Old 11-06-2006, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Color Fade M-Tech E30
Yeah i checked the book and i even tryed crossing them to check also my coil's negative side has a positive voltage but when i go to ground it to check(after pulling the wire that was on it) it sparks so WFT!!!!! ghead ( I REALLY like smileys if you couldn't tell the limit is 10.......)
Your coil is getting power, and yes it will spark if you ground it out, the computer does that inorder to fire the coil.

Do this, with both wires on the coil, hold a test light to the ground side while someone cranks and then tell me what happens.
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#12 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 10:07 PM
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Question

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Originally Posted by Starmavin
Your coil is getting power, and yes it will spark if you ground it out, the computer does that inorder to fire the coil.

Do this, with both wires on the coil, hold a test light to the ground side while someone cranks and then tell me what happens.
what should it do, I used an ohm meter on it and it did nothingused: (maybe im just stupid and this didn't work) ill go get a test light A.S.A.P. most likely tomorrow. so connect the test light to + or - im assuming + right??? and the othe to the - side on coil
thanks for all the help
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#13 (permalink) Old 11-07-2006, 10:37 PM
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Hold the probe on the - and hook the ground of the test light to the motor (or any clean metal surface), then crank the motor and see what happens to the light.
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#14 (permalink) Old 11-08-2006, 02:25 AM
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Exclamation

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Originally Posted by Starmavin
Hold the probe on the - and hook the ground of the test light to the motor (or any clean metal surface), then crank the motor and see what happens to the light.
K i'll Do that tomorrow around 11am or 12 so yeah i'll post what i get

1991 Ford Taurs SHO 5 Speed White on Tan
1996 Chevy Lumina LTZ Rep 3.4L
1992 318i Coupe parts car
1992 325i Ls1 swap with a T56 6 speed 12.2 quarter mile
1976 Mercedes Benz 300D with a Ford 5.0L Fuel Injected soon to be Modded
I am Captain Obvious
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#15 (permalink) Old 11-14-2006, 03:08 AM
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Wink Yay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!

I found the referance sensor to be faulty : along with the ECU (got wet......not sure how the heck that happend smelled of burnt toast used: ) the reference sensor to not read but the speed sensor did least that works (connected multi meter to the first to prongs and it read ohms and when i move a piece of metal passed it it twiched while the sensor that was in th reference socket it had no reading for ohms) so i replaced the ECU . i still need to still replace the reference sensor and put the tires on, finish paint(spray can job ), put the brakes on and put the radio In(Deck and rear speakerswhich are gonnag be installed in the stock prem. boxes to retain stock sleeper look ) And it SHOULD be my baby again right now its my

1991 Ford Taurs SHO 5 Speed White on Tan
1996 Chevy Lumina LTZ Rep 3.4L
1992 318i Coupe parts car
1992 325i Ls1 swap with a T56 6 speed 12.2 quarter mile
1976 Mercedes Benz 300D with a Ford 5.0L Fuel Injected soon to be Modded
I am Captain Obvious

Last edited by AlpineSixAndSeven; 11-14-2006 at 03:12 AM.
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