325e IDLE PROBLEMS - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 05-29-2008, 01:29 AM
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325e IDLE PROBLEMS

*btw, your ICV should be humming with ignition ON(it's a DC motor) inside that sucker, and if it isnt humming, then it is dead... or the voltage supply line is dead.

I did realize that my 525I idle control valve hummed while ignition was turned on. and I had to replace the ICV on the 525I once. But on the 325e is does not hum while on, and when electrical hook up is disconnected it changes no characteristics. Idle is erratic as of now, reving up to 1300 and then dropping down to 700-800.

I believe the ICV is fine.<<<but may not be. have done all fuse tests and intake has no leaks. i do believe it is a electrical problem. <<<referring back to a previous thread I wrote up. QUESTION what is the remedy for replacing the voltage supply line to the ICV????
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#2 (permalink) Old 05-29-2008, 01:41 AM
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WHOA! before you think that far. break out a voltmeter and check for pre sence of voltage in the ICV line(with engine running). If yes, the u are fine. No voltage present, then i will still suspect IDLE CONTROL MODULE.

ICV inspection: idle control valve must be open when there is no voltage applied. I suppose you have the 2 prong type-there should be a 40 ohm resistance between the terminals. if 40 ohms is not attained, replace ICV.

* pinnaclebass: you might also want to rule out the thermo time switch on the t-stat head. Procedure will be to warm up ur car to operating temp and then disconnect the brown sensor. let's see if the erratic idle stops with the sensor disconnected.

I wish to know as well whether the erratic idle happens even with a warm engine. (you just might have knocked off a connection to ur cold start valve while trying to rest ur lights) ;-)

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#3 (permalink) Old 05-29-2008, 02:33 PM
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this is what I found out. fuses are fine, intake has no leaks.
still need voltmeter probably get one tonight.
I sat through erratic idle for longer than usual and exhaust pipes under car started smoking. I first noticed burning smell and then smoke from back of engine compartment. i looked under car and it was exhaust pipes. But temperature gauge does not read well. car should have been at operating temp. and gauge reads a whole 1/4 off. it is just above the blue. when usually (when operating correctly) it sits right above 1/4 line<and when shut off gauge will go right below middle mark. so temperature gauge still not reading right.
and I disconnected brown sensor it actually made the idle rise (probably 300 more RPM) and still rev up and then go down and continue doing so.
Throttle switch disconnected makes idle sit high up at 3000 RPMs.

No hum from ICV still need to check wires that lead to it see if there is voltage like u said. and check ICV terminals for ohm resistance.<<<is this with car on or off???

thanks for the help!!! after this ICV and icv line test I should have better understanding of it being the actual ICV or the electrical lines<<<possibly idle control unit.

found a good thread on IDLE PROBLEMS and diagnostics.

check it out
Idle FAQ
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#4 (permalink) Old 06-02-2008, 01:23 AM
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your post read: "TPS disconnected, RPM 3000"... the RPM should be 750.

your idle stop screw is way too far in. You should set idle at 750, using the stop screw(TPS disconnected)... and then connect TPS.
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#5 (permalink) Old 06-02-2008, 01:31 AM
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i pulled the idle speed control module, the circuit board is fried, resistors, capacitors. so ordering new one. hopefully that will be the extent of damage. odd how module was toast based off short from diagnostic pins/ terminals. <<well i guess not so odd seeing has how it happened as all logical that currents lead and ended at idle control module. as far as throttle position switch, will keep in mind once new module gets shipped to me. looking to be installed and back on road sometime soon.
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#6 (permalink) Old 06-02-2008, 01:34 AM
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Talking

whoa!.. my suspicion was right then?

the jump on that #15 pin at the diagnostic port did that!!!

if u do eBay, i just saw 3 of them thst should fit ur car for cheap ;-) (ie $30.- thereabouts)
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#7 (permalink) Old 06-02-2008, 03:57 AM
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ya. thanks alot darkhorse, not to shabby haha. the temperature gauge still not working, wondering if idle module will put it back online to read, or if shorted gauge on diagnostic pins. <<if so should I replace the temperature sensor on thermostat housing.
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