3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
So im new here, just got a 325e and need some advice
My right front brake system is having a hard time, to say the least.
i was driving today and noticed the car was slowing down w/o braking.
got home, and the wheel in question was piping hot.
the rotor is blackend- i took the tire off and it looks like the pad is pressing down on the rotor- no brake pedal pressure, obviouly..
What do you guys think is the problem and the solution.
also, when i go WOT sometimes, the car has signifgant lag.. kinda like a small series of lurches- almost like fuel isnt getting to the engine- then after 4-6 seconds at the longest it will "catch" and rev normally... Im running 93 octane- the chick i bought the car from did not wind er out often( non- agressive driver_ Do you think it may be the fuel system cleaning it self out (hopefully)
Perhaps your injectors are clogged. Have you run a fuel system cleaner through the engine? You might do that on your next fill up. Also, you may be running slightly rich, which could give you that pulsating feeling. Check to see if your exhaust is black. Also, check to make sure no gas is in the oil, which can come from running rich. I don't know about the brake. Maybe your rotor is warped.
i have an 85 325e and its having the SAME problems, being an ASE certified tech, i have access to some tools you dont have, such as a pair of very knowledgeable master techs familiar with early EFI and imports. we used the mitchell online program they have and found the resistance/voltage values for the AFM and found that it was working fine, but the motronic control unit (ECU) may be the culprit, there was a fairly large crack in the intake pipe but i fixed that with no results, the only things on the car that have the ability to control fuel and richen it THAT much are the AFM and coolant temp sensor, and those are only 20 bucks on ebay or at parts stores, the O2 sensor just "trims" the fuel. mine runs rich too, it seems like cylinders will shut down and after several seconds of WOT the dead ones come back online. i have also noticed that avoiding sudden throttle changes while driving can keep this from happening, if i drive down the road and close the throttle suddenly and open it back up causing it to "hiccup" then the problems will manifest themselves. plugs and wires, cap and rotor couldnt hurt, i would like to have some answers though.
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