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3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

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Old 03-28-2005, 08:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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The car idles OK but looses power when accelerating in the mid RPM ranges. When accelerating around 2000 RPM the car power cuts out and RPMs drop to 1000 until it finally kicks in.

i replaced the plugs, decarboned the throttle body, eliminated all vacuum leaks and checked this and that.

Here is what I did find. I connected an ohm meter to the #2 and 3 pin on the air flow meter. These pins coorespond to the AFM gate position (#1 and #4 are for air temp). When the AFM gate is in the minimum position I measure 800 ohms. As I manualy open the gate the resistance climbs to about 2Kohms at some intermediate position but then starts going down as the gate is opened further. At maximum opening it goes down to 900ohms. Most importantly, Do I need a new AFM?

Can they be taken apart and fixed. Is used a bad way to go?
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Old 03-29-2005, 11:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by erubin@Mar 28 2005, 06:48 PM
The car idles OK but looses power when accelerating in the mid RPM ranges. When accelerating around 2000 RPM the car power cuts out and RPMs drop to 1000 until it finally kicks in.

i replaced the plugs, decarboned the throttle body, eliminated all vacuum leaks and checked this and that.

Here is what I did find. I connected an ohm meter to the #2 and 3 pin on the air flow meter. These pins coorespond to the AFM gate position (#1 and #4 are for air temp). When the AFM gate is in the minimum position I measure 800 ohms. As I manualy open the gate the resistance climbs to about 2Kohms at some intermediate position but then starts going down as the gate is opened further. At maximum opening it goes down to 900ohms. Most importantly, Do I need a new AFM?

Can they be taken apart and fixed. Is used a bad way to go?
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if there are flat spots it means there is carbon build up along the track the airvane follows. it can be taken apart but it is a PITA and your best bet is just goto a junk yard and buy a different one. or if you feel adventurous buy a AFM from a ford 5.0 engine and modify it to fit your engine. just make sure you get one that is tuned to your injectors otherwise you will have one poorly running engine. i used a 73mm cobra afm(you have to modify you boot in order to use it) with a meter from a 1.9l escort and it ran decently. it runs a little lumpy when cold, but after it warmed up it ran fine.
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