im looking to either do a 300zx, 350 small block, or M3 motor swap, but i just gotta figure out which on will be easy on the wallet but will also get me my 14-13 sec 1/4 mile times
A fresh M20 with a T-3/T-4 turbo topped of with a tuned mega-squirt injection system, good tires and good clutch, you'll be there no prob. Depending on how good of a wrench you are you can do that for around $3500. Considering you'll have about that much in a motor, adpters, fabrication, man hours and parts doing a swap, a turbo M20 may just do what you are looking for all along.
I rember reading somewhere that the stock 325i sedan in 87 would do 14.5 in the 1/4
if you want fast, use the 325i Engine(M25 i beleve?) and an M3 Rearend...
and supporting mods ofcourse but i still dont see the point of Turbocharging our cars...
350 chevy.... talk about ghetto-fabulous. You are going to find "throwing the 350 in" isn't all that easy. Pluss trying to find an adpter for the transmission isn't going to be cheap or easy.
I rember reading somewhere that the stock 325i sedan in 87 would do 14.5 in the 1/4
if you want fast, use the 325i Engine(M25 i beleve?) and an M3 Rearend...
and supporting mods ofcourse but i still dont see the point of Turbocharging our cars...
oops... i stand corrected but i thought that you couldnt do anymore than like 5psi with our engines... I asumme someone makes Low Compression Pistons or somthing, gota search up.
dont "throw a 350 in there..." your going to ruin the balance of the car and as starmavin has stated... its going to be a PITA... im not a big fan of international engine swaping, Especialy 350s into RX7(though that SBC would proly fit better in there anyway... its been done alot.)
cars are the way they are for a reason. But i do agree that the 350SBC is one of the most common and popular engines avaliable.
The 2 of the most common and easier mods to down the compression for turbocharging is to swap a 325i 2.5L head on an eta 2.7L or put 2.7L pistons into into the 2.5L motor. Both cut the compression to about 8.0 - 8.5 respectivly. If you want more info just let me know, I'll open the flood gates
Nope, the 2.7 with the "i" head with "i" pistons would be a more powerfull stroker motor, the 2.5 pistons are a raised off center dish, where as the 2.7s have a flat dished piston. The 2.5 has a larger combustion chamber to alow for the 2.5 piston's raised part to come out of the block, the 2.7 has a smaller combustion chamber to make up for the flat dish of the piston. Consequently, if you tried to put a 2.7 head on a 2.5 motor the 2.5 pistons would slam into the head...
Not that you would want to anyways, the 2.5 head flows much better due to larger valves and ports, the intake also has larger runners too.
I have always been a fan of engine/chasis of the same make. About ten years ago helped a friend do a GM sb383 in a 78 280z. It was a fast car straight ahead. but turned and stop like a dump truck. Great drifter, but back then not very popular.
2.7 crank and rods with 2.5 "i" head, pistons, intake, with the motronic 1.1 would make an ideal base for a stroker motor. Then from there you can upgrade the injectors, cam, chip the DME, etc.
P.S. If you chip the DME on any e30 you must run 91 or better octane all the time or you risk detonation that'll damage your motor....
by all means Starmavin, please expell all you know... im all ears... now im kinda thinking turbocharging might be fun... but i dont want to be replacing my engine or drivetrain every week... could it be possiably to saftly turbocharge a 208,000mile " i " M20 engine?
A low boost (about 4-5 psi) turbo setup would give your car a good kick in the paints with out worry of breaking anything. A T3/T4 T04E would be good for a low boost setup, it would spool up around 2500 rpm. You want to get a waste gate that is either adjustable or can have the springs changed out so you can keep the boost low.
Here is a few guide lines for turbocharging motors:
#1 For every 1 psi of boost raises the compression ratio about .5
#2 For every 1 psi of boost raise the octane rating by 2-3 points.
#3 1 psi of boost raises your ambient air temp in the intake by about 12-13 degrees F
#4 For every 10-15 degree raise in ambient air temp raise the octane rating by about 1-2 points.
#5 Effective intercooler surface area should be about 12 square inches for every 5-6 psi anything less no intercooler is needed and more intercooler space raises turbo lag.
Now finding a turbo manifold won't be very cheap, I built a turbo manifold that uses the existing cast manifolds but haven't had much time to build anymore. So keep an eye on eBay. You can feed the turbo from the oil sending unit port, I've used a small banjo fitting with a tapped head to refit the sending unit. It would be best to install a return line into the pan when it's out of the car to avoid shavings.
As far as induction goes, a blow through setup would be best. On 525 BMWs with the metal air box the AFM have an aluminum flange that will bolt to the front of the AFM so that you can fit a hose to it. If you can't find one you can buy a plastic one from auto zone, or eBay. As far as off throttle boost control goes, you don't need a huge sequential blow off valve. A Greddy type-s BOV would work nicely for this, plus parts for these are easy to come by. You want to mount this just before the AFM. Either replace the intake boot with a metal one or a new one. Duct the idle air controller into the intake the same as before, add hose clamps. Install a one way check valve into the valve cover hose or reduct it to a mini valve cover filter found at parts stores then block off the port in the throttle body. Remove the coolant lines to the throttle body and hook them together these will just add unnecessary heat. Install a one way check valve in the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
Now fuel, the 93-96 (other years fit, look for the yellow ones) ford mustang, crown vic and others that have the 4.6 & 5.0 motor are built with bosch 19 lb/pr/hr fuel injectors these will upgrade your wimpy 14 lb/pr/hr and can keep up with 5 psi. A manual boost controller will work very well for this setup. I have found this setup works great so long as you resist turning the boost up. Install a boost gauge, when first starting off set the boost controller to the lowest setting or full open then slowly turn it up after each drive until you hit 4.5 psi on the gauge, no further. Lastly an air/fuel meter will help you keep an eye on things, if it stays lean while under boost you may need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator or an adjustable FPR to bump up the fuel.
I think that'll cover the basics of a low boost setup, I don't think I forgot anything. I'm sure that someone will tell me if I did....
Yeah, I think you forgot to put it in your current E30... WTF?
:joking: I know you have the V12 ready to go... when is that happening by the way? I still have a year until I get the S50... but I know it's going to happen... :devil
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