3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
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I recently used the "home method" to reset my service lights and oil change lights by grounding lead 7. I did this on the wrong set of leads (data port by the fuses) first with no reset but no obvious blown fuses. Then did it correctly with the data port near the distributor. It worked great, back to all green lights. That same day I pulled out the air filter the air flow meter and air intake boot. Cleaned them all and the butterfly with an air intake cleaner and re-assembled. After all that the engine cranks but does not start. Fuel pump works, Ive checked it by bypassing the relay and it hums like it working. I replaced the relay... no change. I pulled a plug after cranking for about 30-40 sec. Plug was dry. I also attempted to see if I was getting a spark. No spark.
So My question... Does anyone know what lead 7 on the data port by the fuse box goes to?
I would also appreciate any Ideas on what I may have screwed up, or an Idea on the next step in figuring it out.
What you circled is the main wireing harnes. You probably blew a fuse or two. I would check all of your fuses with a test light. The reason being is that the fuse may look good but it is actually partially burned out. This happened to me with my fuel pump fuse, it looked good but when I tested it i had no power to the other side, put a new fuse in and it worked fine.
Thanks for the reply. I checked all the fuses with my handy digital multimeter. All checked out. I dont know how to check a relay, or dont have the tools to do so. Since posting I have tried some starter fluid and then cranking it. I didnt even get a sputter. I rechecked the plugs and cant get a spark. I checked the coil, and Im working on the distributor. Ive also pulled out the ecu but I'm not ready to open it. Thanks again
Noah ghead
Ok, so this is a '90 325 Convertible? If so, then the only place that I see pin 7 on connector 101 is to the DME and the ignition coil, from the igntion switch.
It shows to be a green wire at all those places. Power is from the igntion switch, the DME simply monitors for a start signal, and power is also routed to the ignition coil from the ignition switch, all through pin 7.
You may burned the ignition switch, or the power supply to that. I only show a direct line from the battery, no fuse..... There is a connector 100 under the "printed circuit board" You'll have to seperate the fuse block to get to it I believe. It is shown to be between the battery and the ignition switch, and is located inside the fuse block. Split it and check uder there. It will be right in the middle of the last 4 relays towards the rear. It may be melted.
There should be power on pin 7 in run or start key position.
Yes I get power to the instrument cluster and it cranks but no voltage at the coil (15). I have also tested all the connector leads at the ECU and got no voltage reading from Starter Input (terminal 50)
I cant seem to get to the ignition switch. I have an Airbag and the Bently manual does not want me to mess with it. Do I need to remove the steering wheel to get to the ignition switch? I assumed if the car turned over the ignition switch was ok.
You may need to remove the steering wheel. Remove the steering column trim and the switch should be on the left side of the column.
I haven't taken these apart much at all, but it all about the same from car to car.
There should be more than one contact for the igntion switch. It may turn over, but you may be missing another signal.
I'll look into it when I get a chance and see what pins you need to look at.
Latest update:
I pulled up the fuse box and checked the circuit board under it. No obvious burned connections are visible. All lights, wipers etc work inside the car. I cant get the steering column trim off. ghead
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ghead 
There is a connector 100 under the "printed circuit board" You'll have to seperate the fuse block to get to it I believe. It is shown to be between the battery and the ignition switch, and is located inside the fuse block. Split it and check uder there. It will be right in the middle of the last 4 relays towards the rear. It may be melted. 
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