1988 320i Coupe Manual - BMW Forum - BimmerWerkz.com
3-Series (E21, E30) Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.

 
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#1 (permalink) Old 10-05-2004, 02:48 AM
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Hi there,

You guys probably get asked dumb questions all the time, so here goes. I'm looking at buying a 1988 320i coupe, manual. It seems to be in good condition except for two things. The idle was fine when it started, sittingat at about 700-800rpm but after a bit of a hard drive it was at about 1200rpm and didn't fall. Also, there was a bit of a whine from the rear of the car while driving. Diff perhaps? Is there anything other i should know aobut this particular year/model? Also, how easy is it to work around the engine considering the way the bonnet opens, i've never owned a car with a bonnet like this before. I was condsidering buying a newer car, but this thing is great. It drives so much better than something 3 times the cost. I can see why you guys love your cars so much.

Thanks in advance for your reply's.

P.S. Please let me know as soona s you can as i have to make a decision by thursday as i am without a car at teh moment.
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#2 (permalink) Old 10-07-2004, 12:02 AM
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Guy please help, i know this question is boring as anything,. but i really need some sound advice. Please...pretty please help
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#3 (permalink) Old 10-07-2004, 12:10 AM
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The whine sounds like low diff fluid. Or a bearing, depends on if it's corner or straight line drone or both.

The other issuse sound like an ICV that needs cleaning. Does it have MOT and all of it's books in order? Britain right?
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#4 (permalink) Old 10-07-2004, 12:51 PM
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I'm from Australia so Mot doesn't apply here. We have what's called a roadworthy certificate. Re the diff, it was definately straight line, but not sure about corners, didn't really listen. Is the ICV a hard item to find/fix? Is diff prone to fail? Its done 185kms but the car drives really tight. I was really surprised considering it's age. Also the clutch pedal and accelerator pedal are rather stiff/heavy. Is this normal? Also, when i first got into the car and switched it to the ON position, there was a check light flickering on the dashboard, but when i pressed the brake pedal it went away and didn't come back.

Thanks so much for replying mate, i really appreciate it. The more info the better. I've been saving up heaps for this car and really can't afford to end up with a dud. I'm taking it to BMW tomorrow to get an 100 point pre purchase inspection but i don't savour the $200 i have to pay for it.

P.S. thanks again for replying.
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#5 (permalink) Old 10-07-2004, 11:12 PM
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http://www.bmwe30.net or http://e30.bmwdiy.net

Search out some more forums I know there alot of Aussies that have E30's. I miss Australia, I have been to Richmond three times and Sidney and Darwin a few times.

You guys have some cool Holdens and Fords in the land of Down Under. I don't like driving on the wrond side of the road but you get used to it.
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#6 (permalink) Old 10-08-2004, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by M-technik-3@Oct 7 2004, 09:12 PM
http://www.bmwe30.net or http://e30.bmwdiy.net

Search out some more forums I know there alot of Aussies that have E30's. I miss Australia, I have been to Richmond three times and Sidney and Darwin a few times.

You guys have some cool Holdens and Fords in the land of Down Under. I don't like driving on the wrond side of the road but you get used to it.
[snapback]207309[/snapback]

Yeah, i love living in australia. I'm from melbourne. Thank you for writing, all o you, it has beena big help. I got the car today, and am loving it. P.s. does anyone know what the answer is with reference to the hard clutch pedal and the hard accelerator pedar. The brake seems to be the softest pedal to press. The clutch grabs well, so i din't think the adjustment has been played around with too much. The accelerator pedal ont eh other hand baffles me. Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers!
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#7 (permalink) Old 10-08-2004, 11:44 AM
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Clutch and Gas pedal are subjective, meaning they might be normal if you came from another car company IE Japanese with super light clutches. You could lube the accelerator cable with simple 3 and 1 oil.

I do suggest you buy a Bentley service manual. Granted it doesn't cover 320i but the procedures in the 325iS manual are the same unless Aussies have a good reputable service manual for you car.
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#8 (permalink) Old 10-08-2004, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by M-technik-3@Oct 8 2004, 09:44 AM
Clutch and Gas pedal are subjective, meaning they might be normal if you came from another car company IE Japanese with super light clutches. You could lube the accelerator cable with simple 3 and 1 oil.

I do suggest you buy a Bentley service manual. Granted it doesn't cover 320i but the procedures in the 325iS manual are the same unless Aussies have a good reputable service manual for you car.
[snapback]207547[/snapback]
Yeah, i know what you mean. But i had a E36 320i and that had much softer pedals than this. To date this is the hardest pedals i've seen and i've driven anything from suzuki swifts to v8 utes (pick up trucks but smaller) and some other performance cars and they have never been this heavy. Is it possible to adjust it? It actually quite tiring driving the thing.

Ps. Thanks for all your help so far, it's really alayed some of the fears i had when i was checking the car out. I'm planning on doing an inspection II with a timing belt change as soon as is available. What sort of oil would you recommend for my car? is 20W 50 good? or is it better to spend a bit more?and get like 10w30/40. I'd prefer to spend more on oil and less on repairs. the tep here is about 10-25 deg celsius at teh moment and my have to sustain up to aobut 32 deg celsius till the next oil change. What do u recommend for the colder months (bout 7-17 deg celsius) and hotter months (bout 18- 33 deg celsius) The car has 100% compression as tested by BMW, i'm shocked for a car of its age. That's why i want the right stuff in it.

Thanks again.
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#9 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 05:52 AM
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Hi,

I have a UK 1988 320i Coupe Manual. Might be able to offer some info.

The check light that flickers when you switch to the ON position is the brake light bulb check. When you press the brake pedal current is sent through the brake light bulbs to check if they are still working. If so the light goes out on the display. Pretty neat feature i think.

My car has done 123,000 miles - which is about 190,000kms isn't it?
Mine has just developed a whine from the rear - i suspect low diff fluid.

Also i've just had a wheel bearing go (drivers side front) - easily detected by a whining noise when you turn a corner.

As regards the type of oil i reckon 10w/40 part synthetic is the best. 17 for 5 litres over here in the UK (which is quite pricey) but is suppose to offer best protection for high mileage.

My clutch and accelerator are the heaviest i've ever come across. Needs a massive amount of leg strength. I just accepted it - i've had the car 20,000 miles now and no problems with the clutch or gear box.

Hope this helps,
Carl L
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#10 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 10:01 AM
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hey mate,
with regards to the pedals, im pretty sure most e30's are all the same - heavy clutch and more brake pedal travel than we are used to. not sure on the accelerator pedal, mines firm but feels normal - ive got an 85 323i. im from sydney, living in darwin though for work (hate it - someone needs to teach people how to drive up here). hope this helps mate
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#11 (permalink) Old 10-14-2004, 10:31 AM
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the clutch is gunna be heavy compared to most other cars, my clutch is heaveyer than my friends variuos jap cars, a 80's corvete, and a 95 F150 and pretty much all other cars iv driven

<span style='font-size:11pt;line-height:100%'><span style='color:blue'> theres no replacement for displacement </span></span>
im so hardcore. i dont even have cup holders
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