3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
What? didn't read the thread and post a new reply?
once again, it sounds to me like you guys don't know what the heck you are talking about. Seriously, a 1987 2.5? First of all, the fan is belt driven get it?
Secondly, the fan clutch is also belt driven and influenced by the water pump as is the themostat. What do you think about that?
If your engine fan can shred a newspaper when you put it in the blades, your fan clutch is probably good.
A quick check would be to press the blue AC button, and the aux fan should run.
Bentley has a more extensive test procedure for the auxiliary fan, but it depends on whether you have one or two radiator thermo-switches. Let us know.
Whether you have one or two thermo-switches you can check to see you have intact fuses 3 (15A low speed relay fuse), 18 (30A high speed relay fuse), 19 (auxiliary fan 7.5A), and fuse 20 (30A for the AC and aux fan).
I'm pretty sure I have those fuses, but will have to check.
I will get back to everyone :0) Sounds like we have quite the debate. I know the inside fan is belt driven. The outside is difficult to tell because it is in a difficult place to get too. It seems there are two radiators.
As well, it might be something with the gauge to measure the heat. When I tap on the gauge the needle sometimes jumps down a little. But regardless, it still seems to run quite warm....maybe i should just take the damn thing to the shop. I just don't trust alot of mechanics.
also consider checking if the fan will spin freely with your hand and not get stuck on anything. I had a fan that i guess had bent blades so it was getting caught up on the fan shroud and the radiator. All i had to do was slightly bend the blades back towards the engine and voila, fan fix. Little trick i do to keep my cars running cool is drilling a 1/4" hole in the thermostat housing that way there is always a little bit of water/coolant running through the engine. my temp gauge runs at 1/4-1/2 way up the gauge. good luck and please do not overheat your car, 3/4 up the gauge is very risky.
so in fact, you are going to have to take the entire front off the engine to do this project. By the time you are done you should have a virtually brand new unit. I would say to do it right I would figure around $500 for parts, the labor, aye the labor...that could be lofty. I could see the whole thing being around $2000 done right. Maybe alot more....I bet a dealer would quote double that for a repair.....literally....$4000 I would bet....I really would....It's a matter of understanding what you really need and how much you are prepared to pay for it right?
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