3-Series (E21, E30)Chat relating to the BMW 3-Series from 1975-1983 and 1984-1991 line. Specific models: BMW 315, BMW 316, BMW 318, BMW 318i, BMW 320/4, BMW 320i, BMW 320/6, BMW 323i, BMW 320i. E30 Family models include: BMW 325e, BMW 325i, BMW 325is, BMW 325ix.
iv got a 1987 325e and it's a 5 speed manual 2.7 v6 and my car won't start. I am able to bump start it and it runs and idles fine but if I try to start it with the key it just spins and never fires. I have checked everything I have thought of. It's all good. The only thing is that the coil doesn't have power going to it so I got some wire and bridged from a 12 volt source and even with the coil having a
full 12 volts it still won't give power to the distributer cap but if I bumps start it then everything works and has power. Please help out with anything you guys have to say.
Do you have a picture of this V-6 under the hood of your car???? AFAIK, the only V-series engines BMW makes and made are V8,10, &12's.
Now, Check and see if you are getting spark to your plugs. If you are not, replace the CPS (Crank Position Sensor). I don't really know if there is a way to test your coil but ensure that it's not shot. But definetly replace the CPS.
How do I spell relief?!?!?! NO MORE DAMN SNOW!!!!!!
Sorry guys that was a typo. Didn't mean to put the v. It's a inline 6. And the cps,wouldn't that still work if I can bump start it and it'll run? And by bump
start I mean get it rolling with the key on and dump the cluch to
turn the engine and it fires up and runs and idles fine
And one more thing. There is no spark if I am just turning the engine over with the key but if I bump start it and it's running the there is spark to all 6 plugs. And the original coil worked perfect but I still replaced it anyway so there is a new coil that works
Hey guys. Me and a friend of mine that has a shop figured
out the problem. There are 2 cps down at the flywheel. One looks at the teeth for the engine speed andthe 2nd looks at this metal piece that sticks out of the flywheel so the sensor has the right timing. I'm guessing the piece is where # 1 is. Anyway that piece was gone. It was ground down flush with the flywheel so we drilled it out and tapped it and put a ground down bolt in so it has the right air gap between the bolt and sensor and we threw the senso back in and it fired right up no problem
you just reversed yourself, you stated the car would start but not run. Then you said the car started right up after this fix. I could agree that the solution is correct but the engine would never have started with the TDC magentic tooth/sensor missing/damaged...once the engine is started it doesn't need that reference, the computer has it...but once you shut engine down and try it restart the ECU can't tell when to start doing it's thing and the engine won't start....see?
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