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I'm going to be buying a 96 with 177,000 it needs a radiator, blower motor, rear breaks.When i get it home i'm changing the radiator, water pump,thermostat, belts, hoses. What else should i need to replace while i'm working on it? As far as the blower motor is concerned he tells me sometimes it works then at times it doesn't.Would that be the blower motor or the resistor? plus i'm buying a bentley and a peake tool.
on the blower motor I vote on the resistor... Oh and DON'T forget the heater hoses!!!! i did and one exploded
__________________ 1991 Ford Taurs SHO 5 Speed White on Tan
1996 Chevy Lumina LTZ Rep 3.4L
1992 318i Coupe parts car
1992 325i Ls1 swap with a T56 6 speed 12.2 quarter mile
1976 Mercedes Benz 300D with a Ford 5.0L Fuel Injected soon to be Modded I am Captain Obvious
^ I'm having so many issues with carsoft... i cant get it to do anything with the abs/dsc....
__________________ 1991 Ford Taurs SHO 5 Speed White on Tan
1996 Chevy Lumina LTZ Rep 3.4L
1992 318i Coupe parts car
1992 325i Ls1 swap with a T56 6 speed 12.2 quarter mile
1976 Mercedes Benz 300D with a Ford 5.0L Fuel Injected soon to be Modded I am Captain Obvious
^ Oh, In what way?, wont reset light, or read module ??? and where did you get your software disc from is it from carsoft or did it come with the leads. Also did you buy it direct from c/soft or via the net.
__________________ VELVET BLUE UK INDIVIDUAL , IM THE LAST UNITED WE STAND DIVIDED WE FALL
I stepped in a plate of Pasta the other day - now I have to worry about my Carbonara footprint!
Thanks for the input. I'm tied between the 96 740il and a 98 318i the 3 has 140000. I don't want a car that going to be a maintance nightmare or nickle and dime me. I want the 7 but it 6 hours away i don't mind how far it is but the 3 is local both cars was taking care of .Which one would i better off with. I just need something very dpendable
The engine on the 7 is basically built proof,as is the rest, but im probably biased as I have a 7 and wouldnt drive anything smaller than a 6 or 8 series, but its up to you , IMHO the 3 will require a little more maintanence from what Ive read over the years, you get good and bad in every make of car.
Although to me its rather a large choice difference, 3 to 7 ??, 5 to 7 yea could see that but 3 to 7 not really anywhere near the same class. just my opinion, like going from a 500cc to a Goldwing
__________________ VELVET BLUE UK INDIVIDUAL , IM THE LAST UNITED WE STAND DIVIDED WE FALL
I stepped in a plate of Pasta the other day - now I have to worry about my Carbonara footprint!
Well i bought the 7. The radiator is fine it's the water pump thats leaking, the heater hose you mentioned is cracked but not busted,the breaks does need work i ordered new pads, rotors,might need a new wheel bearing on the drivers front, a small hole on the exhaust. On the lighter side it has a dinan carbon fiber cold air intake and maf, chip, and all the electronics work. The car has been somewhat taken care of just needs a really good detail job no rust. I'm happy with it just anxious to actually drive it waiting on all the parts for it plus when i get time to fix it so i might be a week before i drive daily. Oh i paid 2300 for it
Assuming the vehicle has 177,00 Km. I would change the transmission filter and fluid. Use a BMW factory filter and trans fluid which is very expensive. Aftermarket dont work properly. If you don't change the tranny fluid you will eventually have problems. Don't change the fluid if it has 177,000 miles on it. The sludge between the clutches in the transmission may be the only thing holding up the internals. If it has 177,000 mile on it just top off the fluid with factory fluid.
I know that nobody wants a car with problems. If you buy this this car you need to take the responsibility of owning a car like this. Yes, its a good car, not aways problem free though and repairs will cost more money than Japanese or American cars.
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