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1,6,7,8 - Series and Mini Cooper General Chat related to models that do not fit into particular categories above. Please try to put your discussion in more appropriate sections. This section does cover the 1 Series, MINI Cooper and 8-Series vehicles: BMW 830i, BMW 840Ci, BMW 850i, BMW 850Ci, BMW 850CSi, M8, Alpina B12, BMW CS Concept and others.

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Old 07-10-2008, 12:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: hawaii, california and arizona
Car: 1984 733i
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Cool TRANSMISSION REBUILD UPDATE!!! -- Beware LUCAS trans fix?????

i spoke to jurgen @ 4HP24A transmission
thurs morning and got that the LUCAS TRANSMISSION FIX i put in my 84 733i the second day i had it - could very well have expanded the rubber in the transmission and caused it to disintigrate while superheated(thats my noob interperetation).
the forward clutches were probably already on their way out when i bought it- but it was 80%functional and deteriorated to no forward gears immediately after LUCAS TRANS FIX - ive had GREAT EXPERIENCE with LUCAS TX FIX on other vehicles and dont want to imply its a bad product. BUT SOMETHING TO BE AWARE ABOUT!!!!?????

HERE is info i got from jurgen at 4HP24A transmission
about possible rebuild!!!

rebuild and friction kits and drum overhaul for a 1984 BMW 733i - ZF4H22 transmission non electric, numbered 24001468383 or 1043000178.
this is the procedure diagrams I have that I mentioned to Jurgen. Two ZF 4HP22 repairs (per Winfred).. having slid my head and arm under the chassis to drain ATF is the only additional experience I have with this transmission. I have access to 24" floor stands and a 2.5 ton floor jack and was wondering if this 2 feet will get this trans out from under car???

I got in conversation with jurgen that overhaul kit would be @ $74 and the friction kit for all clutches forward, reverse and overdrive would be $137 - my m30 has I believe a throttle sensor that utilizes a pedal overdrive connected to auto trans and that there are overdrive clutches associated with forward gears.
and that all forward gears are in ONE clutch pack. and that the drums can be sent in for overhaul at @ $80 per drum (not sure how many drums are in trans yet)

any feedback on the above products and more diagrams or encouragement for me to undertake this would be greatly appreciated.

im hoping that i can possibly complete this overhaul in the $400 range.
while local trans shop charge over $2500.

please tell me if im totally missing something here. (this is my FOURTH day studying transmission overhauls-NO OTHER EXPERIENCE -PERIOD)

cheers
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Old 07-10-2008, 02:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Auto Trans rebuild

I would talk to Kirt Koeller at autosportsunmited.com, he is in my opinion the Michaelangelo of ZF transmissions.
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Old 07-10-2008, 03:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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spacemarshall. I had a 1978 733i and took the box out twice. the friction plates had worn to the point where the piston 'o' ring popped out of it's groove and when the piston returned it cut that piece of the 'o' ring off. Instant failure, no reverse and one of the forward gears, I don't remember which. I replaced damaged 'o' ring and some of the friction and steel plates that were worn and re-assembled the box. It was ok for a few months and then I noticed it was slipping slightly. I realised then what the problem was. There was too much free play in the clutch pack. I pulled the box again and used one of the old steel plates as a spacer just under the thick steel end plate. If your box is the same as the '78 then I can tell you that it's not a difficult box to do. I am a mechanic and that may make it look a lot easier, but if you work carefully and make notes about the stripping order, you shouldn't have a problem. Just remember to loosen the torque converter from the flex plate and take it out with the gearbox, by first pushing it back into the bellhousing. You only have to move it back about 1 in. and lower it down. You will need someone to help there. The colour of the oil should tell you if any, or all of the clutch packs are burnt, but you must strip them all, keep them separate, and change all the seals and 'O' rings, and any plates that are burnt, or too thin. Warped, or dished steel plates must be changed also and the free play of the discs must not be too big, or too small. Too much play and the piston comes out too far and it slips, too little and expansion will cause it to bind and overheat. If there is a lot of burnt friction plate material in the sump, you may have to strip and clean the valve body. There you must be very careful and make notes of what goes where. I don't remember doing the valve body on that gearbox. Just work carefully and work clean and you should be ok. I hope this helps you.
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Old 02-06-2009, 05:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobwatt View Post
spacemarshall. I had a 1978 733i and took the box out twice. the friction plates had worn to the point where the piston 'o' ring popped out of it's groove and when the piston returned it cut that piece of the 'o' ring off. Instant failure, no reverse and one of the forward gears, I don't remember which. I replaced damaged 'o' ring and some of the friction and steel plates that were worn and re-assembled the box. It was ok for a few months and then I noticed it was slipping slightly. I realised then what the problem was. There was too much free play in the clutch pack. I pulled the box again and used one of the old steel plates as a spacer just under the thick steel end plate. If your box is the same as the '78 then I can tell you that it's not a difficult box to do. I am a mechanic and that may make it look a lot easier, but if you work carefully and make notes about the stripping order, you shouldn't have a problem. Just remember to loosen the torque converter from the flex plate and take it out with the gearbox, by first pushing it back into the bellhousing. You only have to move it back about 1 in. and lower it down. You will need someone to help there. The colour of the oil should tell you if any, or all of the clutch packs are burnt, but you must strip them all, keep them separate, and change all the seals and 'O' rings, and any plates that are burnt, or too thin. Warped, or dished steel plates must be changed also and the free play of the discs must not be too big, or too small. Too much play and the piston comes out too far and it slips, too little and expansion will cause it to bind and overheat. If there is a lot of burnt friction plate material in the sump, you may have to strip and clean the valve body. There you must be very careful and make notes of what goes where. I don't remember doing the valve body on that gearbox. Just work carefully and work clean and you should be ok. I hope this helps you.
I think that should be a very helpful man, that is a great guide on rebuilding a transmission..


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