HELP ! 97 BMW 750 Water Pump Removal

[SoCal750iL]

I have the water pump exposed but I need to remove the Crank Pulley & Harmonic Balancer (I think!) to remove the water pump. I tried using an impact on the crank bolt but it wouldn't budge. I even snapped off the head of my breaker bar! Any suggestions on procedure, short cuts, and/or special tools needed for job would be appreciated. Thanks

[CanyonCreekMT]

Not sure about BMW but you might want to check and make sure it is not a left handed thread. I have known a few folks that have broken stearing wheel bolts because they are left Handed threads.

[johnnyBgood]

Originally Posted by SoCal750iL

I have the water pump exposed but I need to remove the Crank Pulley & Harmonic Balancer (I think!) to remove the water pump. I tried using an impact on the crank bolt but it wouldn't budge. I even snapped off the head of my breaker bar! Any suggestions on procedure, short cuts, and/or special tools needed for job would be appreciated. Thanks

Found these links to help you with your e38 & water pump!

I tried using an impact on the crank bolt but it wouldn't budge.

There should be 8 smaller bolts inside the dampner......that you have to remove, not the large crank pulley bolt!

http://www.magnum1.com/BMW-740/740_P...-Pump-740.html

e38.org BMW 7-series information and links

jb

[SoCal750iL]

There are no bolts on or in the balancer but thanks for tryin. The E38 Model w/ the M73 Motor Water Pump is such a pain and different from other models.

[johnnyBgood]

Originally Posted by SoCal750iL

There are no bolts on or in the balancer but thanks for tryin. The E38 Model w/ the M73 Motor Water Pump is such a pain and different from other models.

Check out page 20 of 31

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/d...eplacement.pdf

jb


• Remove the belts by undoing the tensioners
• Remove the water pump pulley
• Remove the crankshaft bolt and harmonic dampener
Warning: The crankshaft bolt is very difficult to remove. My experience required the
following efforts to remove the bolt:
• Locked the crank by locking teeth on the flywheel at the transmission
• Heating the bolt to red hot
• Soaking the bolt with a penetrant after heating.
• Using a 24” break bar with an additional 48” cheater bar
• 600+ ft/lbs torque wrench.

WOW!